The Skin, Retinoids

Retinoids are one of the most popular cosmeceuticals you can buy. They are all cousins of Vitamin A, and help in growth and development of many tissues, but for our purposes just know that it helps your skin to behave like healthy, young skin. It can take >12 weeks to see any initial improvement in the skin with retinoid treatment, maximal effects won't be seen until 6-9 months. The best improvements are seen in skin roughness, hyperpigmentation and fine lines, but you will see some improvements in coarse wrinkles and freckles as well.

Tretinoin (aka- retinoic acid) is the active component, retinol is converted into this form within the skin.

There are 2 ways which Vitamin A functions:
1. Antioxidants- Protection of tissues from damage from oxygen scavengers
2. Gene Activation- Retinoic Acid (aka- tretinoin)

The net result of these mechanisms is that the epidermis thickens, cells increase in their turnover and the number of cells that produce sebum decrease. There are even changes in the anchoring tissues around the skin cells, making everything more stable. Atrophy of the epidermis is reduced, more collagen is made and with increased cell turnover pigmentation issues are improved because keratinocytes that have accumulated too much melanin are shed.

It is important to note that the retinoid you use needs to be stable in the form you bought it, and active. There are a lot of different forms of retinoids, but they can be easily inactivated in certain creams/gels and with exposure to the sun. So, look for a retinoid that comes in a package that doesn't let in sunlight.

Another concern that many have regarding use of Retinoids is combination with other products. While it is true that Retinoids are less stable when in the same product as some ingredients (such as Alpha-Hydroxy Acids), there should be no issues with combining them on your face. In fact, many dermatologists suggest that using both will improve the efficacy of the the retinoid as it will be able to penetrate your skin more easily.

In addition, many suggest applying retinoids at night. I was unable to find any evidence that they work better at night versus morning. However, they should be started slowly (a few times a week) and increased in frequency as your skin is able to handle them. Don't be surprised if you have some redness, peeling or even stinging with use. These problems will decrease with time, allowing you to increase your use of the product.

One final note- retinoids will make your skin more sensitive to the sun. This makes your daily use of a broad spectrum sunscreen even more important!


Retinoid Picture